Les Chateaux

The Loire Valley is famous for its countless chateaux. Some are just hulking gray ruins, looming over a town, while others are beautifully preserved and open to the public for tours. Prices are about 10€ per ticket wherever you go, and a visit in the off season will assure that you can have the place pretty much to yourself.

I headed out after a lovely breakfast at the patisserie down the block and my first destination was the chateau of Chenonceau. 

Known to be one of the most beautiful chateaux in the Loire, Chenonceau straddles the river Cher and allows for amazing river views from every window.

It is filled with sumptous fabrics, wallcoverings and some knockout floral arrangements in every room.

My favorite rooms were the kitchen and pantry, where the collection of shining copper cookware made me envious.

Next up was Chateau de Chaumont, which was lovely outside and had a high, commanding view of the river Loire. 

Not as pretty as Chenonceau, Chaumont has a gloomy aspect about it with bare stone walls, creaky floors. The rainy day didn't help. Outside was covered with lovely gardens and perky walkway sentinels that accompanied me around each turn. 

Chaumont is also host to the International Garden Festival, held twice a year in April and October.

I was hungry and getting tired, so I drove to the small city of Blois, also on the Loire. I found a small brasserie and ordered the plat du jour, which was cassoulet and a salad today for 9€. I also had a glass of rose' and the tab was 11€. 

Then I fought the wind and drizzle and found the chateau of Blois, which is right in the center of the historic district, up on a hill.

The chateau, in addition to featuring the stunning rooms and grand spaces of the royal family, also has a wing dedicated to architectural antiquities, like gargoyles.

Also a fine arts museum. At one point, with a full belly and a full day, I sat on a bench in the art museum and dozed off. 

After waking myself and heading back into the town, I stopped to buy a beret because it was so cold.

Here' a pic of Blois, seen from th other bank of the Loire.