The butcher shop

Today I have been thinking about what a fantastic boucherie we have in Duras. I've been home less than 48 hours and I already miss it. The Evard family runs the shop that I imagine has been in the same spot in Duras for decades. The couple is cheerful, hardworking and puts out a great product at an excellent price.

During my stay in Duras I made three trips to the butcher. I also went to the Carrefour market, but I didn't buy any meats there as having a neighborhood butcher shop is such a rare treat in the 21st century, I was excited to take advantage of the opportunity.

My first trip I bought different types of house-made charcuterie like rillettes de poulet and pate' de lapin, both of which were excellent.

My second visit was on a Sunday morning and they were featuring a lot of different roasts, perfect for a fall day. I picked up a delicious stuffed veal roast which I put in the oven with carrots, turnips and thyme. The roast was stuffed with a sausage mixture that had an herbaceous and shallot flavor. It was moist and filled the house with an other-worldly aroma for a day. We ate it for two meals and still had enough for sandwiches a third day.

On a chilly Friday night I needed an excuse to get the oven going so I walked down to the butcher to find an aporopriate dinner for a weekend night. In the lighted case was a pan of stuffed small chickens--larger than Cornish game hens. I'm not really sure what you'd call them. They were boned and tied and topped with local dried plums. The sign said 9.50€, which I assumed to mean for each chicken, but when I ordered them, the butcher weighed them and I ended up paying just 5.50€ for the two. I roasted them with a head of cauliflower and discovered upon eating that they were stuffed with a pork sausage mixture. Again, delicious and so incredibly cheap.

I went to Dave's yesterday. I stood at the meat section for a while hoping that some creative preparation of organically raised and minimally processed meat would just show up ready to be put into my oven. It didn't happen.

I miss Monsieur and Madame Evard of Duras. I miss butcher shops.

Birthday in Paris

It rained. It poured. It had been raining already long enough for deep puddles and troughs to form on sidewalks and at curbs. The graveled spaces ran with slick clay mud. The cobbles reflected the city of lights's lights, blinding with their mirrored amperage. The grass was a sponge. The only audible sounds at times were the rhythmic squishings of shoes. My birthday in Paris.

Could be worse . . .

So we did a "Kodak Moment" tour of Paris, which began at 4 o'clock when the airport shuttle bus dropped us off at the Opera house.

We walked down swanky Rue de l'Opera to the Louvre and stood in the rain to gather in the enormity of that hallowed space, where, even on a wet Sunday afternoon, a long line of multi-hued umbrellas queued up for a peek at the Mona Lisa. We didn't have time.

We crossed the Seine and headed toward Notre Dame cathedral, where we joined the crowds and stopped in for a quick look. Big. No hunchback.

We spotted the Pont des Arts where crazy lovers hang padlocks to solidify their feelings for each other. Beh! I think the only ones making out in this nonsense are the lock companies.

A long walk to go. Getting darker, wetter and gloomier, we had a long sprint to get in the other direction and find the Eiffel Tower in time for our dinner reservation at 6:30. I won't gloss over this--it was a miserable walk and damn if we could find a taxi stand or figure out what one had to do to hail one.

Finally made it to the tower at 6:20 and had to queue up to get our tickets for the elevator, then cross under the tower to stand in the elevator line. Finally, at 6:35 we were in our seats with a glass of champagne. 

The menu was lovely. Food was presented beautifully. Service was pleasant and attentive. 

When we left the tower the rain had stopped and we finally got a chance to marvel at the shining spectacle that is the Eiffel Tower. Wow! Just wow!

Next stop Jamestown.

Villages and castles

On our last day in le sud-ouest as this region is called, we orgnized the house, did some packing, and when we got a good jump on our "must do" list, we thought about what should be on our "want to do" list. 

France has a designation given to certain towns, called Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. The towns must be historic and have much of their original architecture in tact. They must also have some sort of tourist attraction, like a castle or a bastide layout. In the Lot-et-Garonne, where Duras is, there are very few of these special villages, but one of them, Monflanquin, is not too long a drive. So we headed there to see what's so special.

It was very cute and we had a quick lunch in La Bastide, which was a cozy hangout for locals. 

We were looking over the village walls at the distant views and spotted a giant edifice on the horizon. There was a sign indicating that the structure was the Chateau de Biron, which was almost 15 kilometers away. It was so massive and imposing at that distance, we got on the road to see what it was like up close. The dramatic skies just added to the spectacle.

Voila!

So we discovered that it was open. We paid 8€ each and were the only people in a place about the size of Yankee Stadium. It was a treat to explore freely. Joe tried being the Duke at his dining table:

I measured all the fireplaces:

We just enjoyed a beautiful fall day being king and queen.

Saint Emilion

Even on a gray, rainy day there are few places in the world more beautiful than the UNESCO site of Saint Emilion. The architecture, the hillside position, the way the vines grow right up to the town walls. Then there are the seductive restaurants and wine shops with colorful displays to beckon you in.

We started our day with an appointment at Chateau Fonplegade, a producer of Saint Emilion grand cru classe'. Our tour and tasting in the tastefully designed wing were conducted by Sarah, a charming native of Houston, TX.

The chateau is currently being renovated by its American owners, who also produce wine in Napa Valley--not a bad life! Here are a few pix of Ch.Fonplegade:

We tried three reds and a rose' and I would have to say that we were completely blown away by the sumptuousness and velvety smoothness of the reds. All three are on their way to our house so we can relive the experience a dozen times.

Lunch was at Delices du Roy, a bistro that also produces their own red wines, which Joe tried and enjoyed, though they were not up to the Fonplegade reds that still lingered on our palates. We both ordered the "hamburger maison," which was outrageously decadent: a french roll topped with sliced seared duck breast, seared foie gras and then finished with a green peppercorn sauce. It was sublime! We told the owner it was the best "hamburger" we'd ever eaten and he just beamed because, being Americans, we must know a thing or two about burgers.

Hostellerie des Ducs

Duras has but one hotel. I stayed there for a night last June--the night before I signed the papers and bought the Clocktower Cottage. In the morning, they served an extensive and elegant breakfast so I had some idea of the attention to detail.

Tonight, Joe and I had a reservation to try the highly-regarded restaurant at night. It's really the sort of place where you need to dress up a bit, make a reservation and expect dinner to last 2.5-3 hours. 

Even though we typically enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere, the Hostellerie is a lovely place for a special occasion or romantic evening as part of a vacation to this region. You must, however, bring an empty stomach and a full wallet.

The pre-fixe menu began with an amuse bouche of avocado sorbet in a shot glass and a tiny pot of pumpkin bisque. It was followed by a terrine of wild boar surrounding a core of foie gras, which was accompanied by raisin toasts spread with butter, apple and onion confit, and red onion jam. There was also a "chocolate tomato," which was a hollow sphere of dark chocolate filled with a rich tomato jam, then there were a few slices of cured sausage.

Between courses, a tiny ball of rosemary sorbet was served floating in a shot of citrus vodka. It was a bracing palate cleanser.

Next was the main course. For Joe it was a succulent shoulder of lamb served with risotto and white bean puree. For me it was seared scallops with slices of chorizo atop a bed of carrot puree, with a small pot of prawn risotto on the side.

We are not done yet.

The "cheese trolley" was wheeled to our table next. About 20 different fresh, local wheels of cheese arrived under a glass dome, which was raised when it came to the table. I noticed a rather funky smell when the trolley was several tables away, but having all those cheeses so close was rather like having an unwashed homeless guy sitting at the table with you. For a moment I thought I might faint. But I pulled it together and selected my three choices of stinky cheeses. Joe chose three different ones so we could compare them. Of the six options, there were two that could be considered outstanding--one of them a creamy fresh roquefort--much softer and more spreadable than I'd ever had.

Finally it was time for dessert. Joe chose a chocolate lava cake with chocolate sorbet. I had an espresso with an assortment of diminutive desserts including pineapple sorbet, a tiny madeleine, a cannelle, a meringue, and a pot of fresh whipped cream to dip everything in.

We toddled home and may not need to eat again for awhile--maybe ever.

Bordeaux!

What a beautiful city! Wide open spaces, luscious golden stone buildings, great wine, great food, great shopping. I don't think I can add much to that list.

We wandered around the historic district till our feet ached. Then we found a fantastic place called Bar a Vins where we ordered from the extensive by-the-glass list of Bordeaux appelation wines with prices starting at 2€ for a glass. We shared a goat cheese plate and one of foie gras. Great stop!

Bordeaux in photos:

Bergerac

The old bridge is reflected in the river Dordogne.

When we visited France in July 2013 we took an all day tour with Bergerac Wine Tours and made several stops in this area, including a brief walk to the Maison du Vins in the historic district. It was a busy summer day and we were on a tour schedule so we didn't linger long.

Today we returned to get a better feel for the town. 

There was a big market surrounding the Gothic cathedral and the foods looked beautiful as always. We wandered into the medeival quarter where there is a wealth of historic architecture. The character Cyrano de Bergerac is associated with this town, but there really is no connection. However, because the name is inextricably linked, there is a monument to Cyrano and his giant nose in a pretty square.

I chose a restaurant in advance: La Villa Laetitia, because it was highly rated and the decor was very French and stylish.

We enjoyed a fabulous lunch of pheasant pate' en croute, a salad, then duck breast on a bed of ratatouille, served with frites. A local Pecharmant red paired nicely with lunch.

I have been in France for 6 days and Laetitia is the first restaurant I have gone to on this trip. I am enjoying my new Duras kitchen so much that we have been shopping locally and eating at home each night. 

Bergerac is truly a lovely town and an easy 45-minute trip from Duras.

Things I didn't buy

This cool motorbike:

This Sousaphone:

These things:

And this leather-clad perambulator:

Sights and sounds

I

Karaoke!

Amusements!

Vide grenier! Clocktower at the end of the street.

Accordion-playing vendor

My treasures

Three new enamel pichets and a sweet red coffee pot.

Cute enamel tool holder.

Duck and chick chocolate molds.

Joe just bought cookies or these cannelles and munched all day.

Saint Martin's Faire

Well, tiny Duras is the hotspot of southwest France today as families are all gathered here to take part in the festivities. It's a national holiday in France so nobody is working today--except the countless vide grenier, carnival and marketplace vendors.

Several of Duras' streets are lined with antiques  and flea market stalls. The market square is mostly filled with food vendors, including those selling fresh oysters by the "douzaine," also giant pans of paella, even a food truck hawking the cuisine of Reunion. Just steps from our front door are an oyster stall, a beer stand and the folks selling Nutella crepes and Belgian waffles. Ugh! I can smell them when I open my front door.

On the clocktower end of town is a large amusement park with arcade games. Also there is a display of the newest Nissan vehicles.

Joe took a walk early this morning to scope out the area, then excitedly came home about 8 yelling for me to get my butt out of bed before all the good antiques were gone. So I did.

Market day!

Look at moi with my new woven market basket, which I bought this morning. Now it's time to fill it with good tasting foods.

These lovely bright orange squashes are a curiosity and will be a good side, roasted along with the rotisserie chicken I got from the poulet guy.

A chou-fleur is among my favorite veggies. We can have it later in the week with something good from the butcher.

Look at these delicate pink heads of garlic. They are without imperfections of any sort and almost look fake. Someone was selling braids of smoked garlic and I asked to buy just one head to try it, but she would only sell me enough to perfume all of France so I had to pass.

My guy that sells scarves was there today. I reminded him I bought several from him in June, but I gave them all away as gifts. So today I bought one for myself.

We also bought fresh goat cheese, some Morbier cheese and dried sausages--one made of duck and the other studded with dried figs and walnuts.

The whole town is in set up mode for the big Saint Martin's Fair tomorrow. One parking lot is taken up with carnival games. Another is full of amusement rides. Food trucks and sellers of all sorts are securing their spots around town. We found a flyer on our car telling us on which streets parking would be banned so we have already moved our car to the parking lot near the fire station outside the village. I have to admit I am very curious to see what sorts of things happen and who shows up to partake. Expect a full report tomorrow.

Le monsieur est ici

Well the Clocktower Cottage finally has a man of the house as Joe arrived this afternoon. I can't  take credit for any heralding angels or trumpeters to welcome him, but I did put out a nice charcuterie lunch with a bottle of Domaine Amblard red.

After a stroll around the village with a stop to check wifi at the Cafe' de la Paix, he took a shower, put on his jammies and is now in a dead slumber on the couch, which was expected given the full day of travel that ensued before he had a decent snack and a comfy pillow.

I walked down to the boucherie this morning to see what sort of welcome dinner I could prepare tonight and found a lovely stuffed veal roast "farcie de veau," which is now roasting in the oven with some wine, garlic and leeks. Roasting too are some carrots and turnips with olive oil and herbs. The house smells like heaven. As it is rainy and gray outside, a lit oven and good aromas are just the perfect entree' to another week in Duras.

Show and tell . . .

Ma cuisine est fini!

Regardez!

Detail of a drawer:

Now the other side. I mixed Aubusson blue with Old white to come up with a hybrid color. I am having Warren change the top of this section to butcher block as well.